Friday, June 26, 2015

charleston.

I've been ruminating for a week and a half on how I feel about Charleston and what happened there last Wednesday.  I have started writing this post several times, only to be overcome by complicated feelings so intense, I had to literally get up and walk away from my computer. 

As a journalist and proud South Carolinian, my emotions have truly been all over the place.

After getting the call Wednesday and the instruction to drive all night to be ready to report Thursday morning, I thought only of the editorial job I had to do, the logistics of where to park and making sure the correspondent I was producing for was prepped and ready to be on television.  For the first few hours of the day, I thought only about getting the story and all of its horrible details.
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But when the sun came up on Calhoun Street in a city I love so dearly, I couldn't help but notice that the stately and gorgeous Emanuel AME church looked different.  Or, I wondered, was it I that was different, knowing that I'd have to add "church" to a list of other places (elementary school, movie theater, grocery store) where our safety from evil is no longer guaranteed? 

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To the families of the Charleston 9 - There are no words to express the grief I feel for your extraordinary loss.  The stories I've heard about your loved ones who lost their lives will stay with me forever and I remain profoundly disappointed that the world will no longer benefit from their exceptional gifts.  May you find peace and feel love from a nation that grieves with you.

To Charleston - I'll never stop singing your praises and you have made me so very proud to have lived there and to be from South Carolina.  Thank you for showing your compassion and your hospitality and for showing America how a community grieving can come together in ways that have made my heart swell at least a thousand times.  I'll never stop lobbying to become CNN's first and only Lowcountry Bureau Chief, but I hope the next time I'm in town covering a story, it's one highlighting your beautiful spirit.  

To the rest of the world looking at South Carolina - This state is special.  The people here are special.  We are not perfect, and there are a few bad apples that still remain walking our streets, but that's no more or less than any other place on earth.  We've made some mistakes in our past that thankfully we seem to be on the path to correcting.  We'd love for you to come visit and we'll show you a real good time, but spare us your lectures or the assumption that we're lesser than you.

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Have a great, peaceful weekend.  Choose love, my friends. 

Thursday, June 4, 2015

south africa, part four: the main event.

After a week and a half of experiencing new things in an exotic country full of gorgeous views (Part One, Part Two, Part Three), the time had come for the real reason we'd traveled so far - Emily and Justin's wedding weekend. 

Because this is the kind of (amazing) couple they are, the duo didn't just arrange for transportation to take us to Morgansvlei Country Estate for their wedding, they also arranged wine and cheese-tasting at Fairview winery on the way.

I've been known to get excited at wine tastings and have confused my taste buds into thinking I should purchase a lot of wine that I didn't actually like.   Yakima Valley, anyone?  But Fairview was different.   I bought a case and have enjoyed every bottle of it and if I could've shipped the cheese home, I would've done it.

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Then, we were all invited to a traditional South African braai, held poolside next to mountainside views, because of course it was.
  
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And then, it was Emily and Justin's wedding day.  The Main Event. 

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I'm not sure how Emily managed to look so beautiful, so at ease after having entertained her American guests for several days, shuttling us from one tourist attraction to the next and making sure we were having a good time.  She was flawlessly stunning and glamorous, while still looking like her laid-back self.  Justin looked pretty handsome too. 

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Nor do I understand how Mo pulled off officiating their nuptials in such an appropriately humorous and completely meaningful way - especially after planning the entire trip and enduring one of the most vicious sunburns I've ever seen.

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The wedding was, in a word, gorgeous.  In two words, gorgeous and HOT.  I'll spare you the sweaty face dancing pictures.  Yikes.   

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I don't think I'll offend Justin or Emily when I say as sweet and fun as their wedding was, it was just another great day among all of the truly spectacular days we had in South Africa.  A beautiful highlight in an already very crowded highlight reel, for which I am extremely grateful.  

In that regard, I hope their wedding is a metaphor for the life that they will have together - one that is full of laughs, new experiences, beautiful views, gin drinks and sweaty dancing.  One perfect day among many to come.  

Cheers and Congrats Justin and Emily! 

Friday, May 29, 2015

south africa, part three: circles of life.

Thank you all so much for your very sweet comments regarding my last post.  I am truly touched and I know Julie and everyone rooting for her appreciates your prayers.  

I thought before my South Africa reunion happens next weekend, I'd try and finish writing about my trip to South Africa, because, well, it's good to have goals and finish what I start.

I mentioned in Part One that going on safari with my coworkers was a lot like going on a field trip; Part Two in Cape Town was like studying abroad in college - cultural experiences during the day and complete debauchery at night.

This part - Part Three - is all about the cultural/educational part of the trip, which probably explains my reluctance to write about it and which probably means that you might not even make it to the bottom of this post.

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Spoiler alert: there's penguins ahead, so you better keep reading!

Because getting married just wasn't quite eventful enough for Emily and Justin, they decided to add to their stress levels by also playing tour guide to a couple dozen Americans, most of whom were visiting South Africa for the first time.  I do not understand this overachieving behavior and I would like to go ahead and tell all of you future potential guests at my hypothetical wedding at TBD location, I will not be offering these tourism services.  You're on your own.

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First on the list of our excursions, and perhaps the most important for anyone visiting Cape Town, was a ferry ride and tour of Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years.

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The week I really wanted to tackle this post happened to be the week of all of the unrest in Baltimore, following the death of Freddie Gray.  I thought I could somehow use the tense emotions and actions of my fellow Americans in Maryland to open up a conversation about life during apartheid in South Africa.

Then I remembered that I can't even pretend to speak intelligently on such complex issues.  Everything started to feel so difficult and so big and I just got overwhelmed, so I stopped. 

Then yesterday, one of my most favorite bloggers, Glennon Melton Doyle, inspired me.  After her thousands of fans begged her to respond with her feelings about Baltimore, she finally did, saying, "There are times in our shared human history that are so serious, so deep, so important, so painful that the only response from someone who is ignorant of the roots of this pain is quiet learning."  As if a sign from the blogging Gods and the real God, I sort of felt moved to write about Robben Island.

I can tell you some of the facts that I learned from our tour guide, Sparks, who was also a former prisoner at Robben Island, whose delivery and spectacular ability to roll his "R's," when he said, "Rrrrrroben Island," will stay with me forever.

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Mandela lived on Robben Island for 18 of the 27 years he was imprisoned after he was convicted for conspiracy to violently overthrow the government of South Africa for his role in the anti-apartheid movement.  While there, he lived in a maximum security part of the prison - in a cell that was just 7 feet by 9 feet.  He slept on the floor and used the bathroom in a bucket.  He did hard labor in a rock quarry with other prisoners in the heat of the summer and the cold of the winter wearing no shoes.  The dust stirred up in the quarry sometimes caused blindness.  Prisoners would cut tennis balls and slip notes into them before hitting them over the wall to communicate with one another. Mandela began writing his memoir, A Long Walk to Freedom, while living on Robben Island and he would hide excerpts in a garden area.

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Those are the facts - the ones I remember.

But to go deeper, to fully comprehend apartheid and then try to explain the complexities of race relations  that I can't even unwrap in my own country - where would I even begin?

Before I tried to tackle this poignant part of our trip, I spoke to Emily about growing up during apartheid.  She said it was quite similar to life during the Jim Crow era in the US - forced separation of blacks and whites by a small, but powerful political party.  White people and black people attended separate schools, used separate bathrooms, ate in different sections of restaurants.  While apartheid ended in 1991, many of the disparities between blacks and whites still exist today - most visible to us in the miles of slums we passed on our way to the house we rented for the week. 

I have so much to learn, as you can see - and Emily recommended reading A Long Walk to Freedom, along with movies like Invictus and Mandela, which she said do a good job of depicting that time in South African history.  If you haven't already left my blog for hers, Glennon also recommended reading The New Jim Crow: Mass Incarceration in the Age of Colorblindness. 
  
Our cultural experiences also included a trip to Cape Point, which contrary to popular misinformation is NOT the southernmost point of South Africa.  It is, as advertised, "One point.  One million points of view."  We aggressively hiked to the top and enjoyed the spectacular views.  Did I mention South Africa has some pretty amazing views?  

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To complete the "seeing new things" part of our trip, PENGUINS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  ON A BEACH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Boulders Beach, to be exact.  I don't know how they got there - I thought penguins only lived in cold climates, but I was wrong. 

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Hard to imagine by these pictures, and by the various stages in the circle of life that we saw while we were there, these little cuties are actually endangered.  I could've watched them all day.

 
March of the South African Penguins
from Stephanie Gallman on Vimeo.

You made it all the way to the end.  Congratulations!  And thank you!  Let's all keep learning and seeing new things.  In cool places like South Africa, preferably.